Tag Archives: photos

North shore bonanza

This scares me. I may have nightmares tonight.
This scares me. I may have nightmares tonight.

The north shore is still amazing.

Why that vast expanse is not publicized as the largest pristine wilderness area in the world with unlimited public access is beyond me. The tourist operators are missing the boat on that one – but that’s typical of Canadian small business. They’re too busy concentrating on the obvious – a goddamned cement goose, for crying out loud – to see the benefits of an enhanced effort to draw people to a huge expanse of wilderness virtually untouched by anyone.

Keep ’em coming down the highway and let ’em stop at the gawk and go. Sell ’em a t-shirt that says ‘I was here’ and then shove them out the door to make room for the next. Perhaps they’ll use the washroom that reeks of urine and buy a donut while they’re here.

Yeah. That’s the ticket.

The Red Coat Trail

In early July of 1874, the great trek by the North West Mounted Police to bring law and order to the Canadian West began. Two hundred and seventy-five men, half as many oxen, 90-odd cattle, 310 horses, 114 Red River carts, 73 wagons, field guns, mortars, forges and field kitchens all tagged along.

It seems that a place known as Fort Whoop Up and the mayhem associated with it was the cause of it all. After covering over 800 miles from July 8 to September 30, the Mounted Police discovered that the place had been deserted in advance of their arrival.

In anticipation, it appears that the whiskey traders abandoned their fort:

…B, C and F Troops north to Fort Whoop Up at the junction of the Belly and St. Mary rivers. There they found that the whiskey traders had learned of the mounted police’s approach and had gone out of business. – Diary of Commissioner George Arthur French, N.W.M.P.

Merry Christmas

Ah the joy of yet another Christmas Day without snow. Yes, ’tis true! I can look out my window and see no snow one more time in my happy life, for the chinook rules in this part of the world. Of course, the temperatures aren’t southern California, but I could care less about that. Truthfully, even the temps aren’t that bad now that I’ve been here a while.

There’ll be no bike ride though. I’ve committed myself to that. But, April is just around the corner, so to speak, and I’ll be exploring new ground come next year. The riding in this neck of the woods is all new to me, and while I have passed through at various times in my life, I’ve never stopped to smell the roses.
wild rose
For my loyal subscribers (I think they total three in number), I’ll be adding some pictures to this thing over the next week or so. You might want to turn off your feeds or you’ll be continually annoyed as I update ad nauseum.

Winterpeg

Field of dreamsA gorgeous city in the summer turns into a nightmare in winter. It can go to -40F here in January for three weeks. A blizzard can and does shut town the city for three or four days, three times each winter. With the wind the snow can pile up in drifts up to a garage roof if your home happens to face in the wrong direction. It’s horrible. Ask me how I know!

Esplanade Riel
Esplanade Riel

Spring is no bonus, for the Red River can flood it’s banks and make a mess too. Oh, and don’t forget about the mosquitoes that make it quite unpleasant to go outside in the mornings and evenings. West Nile Virus never had such a pleasing home.

A growing native population from northern reserves has helped to contribute to burgeoning crime, street gangs, and high unemployment.

Ask a resident and he’ll tell you that it’s the best place in the world, but remember, he probably grew up on a farm and couldn’t wait to get out of the farmhouse and away to someplace else.

It’s just a good place to be from, and I’m happy I no longer live here.

Lake Superior’s North Shore

Forestry and mining dominate this part of the world. All of the towns are one-industry, or, if fortunate, two-industry, with mining being the second of two evils. Forestry prevails from here west to the border with Manitoba but there are scattered production mines for gold or other metals.

Easy Blue
Easy Blue

The road isn’t the greatest, although it is well maintained. It’s all two-lane blacktop at best, with the occasional passing lane to break the monotony. Straight stretches are at a premium, and during summer the ‘Bagos, boat trailers and semis are tough to get past.

Deer and moose prevail. Hitting a 1,200 pound moose is no picnic, and although the deer are much smaller, at speed they too will make quite a mess out of a car.

Fuel isn’t a problem along this route. There’s plenty of every kind you might want to buy, although you may have to spend some time looking for a particular octane in town.

North of Wawa the road heads inland for 116 miles and then Marathon comes into view on a peninsula into Lake Superior. There are three gold mines east of Marathon, but you won’t be stopping for a tour to see the sights. You’ll never get in.

Since the road now follows the shore, fog and rain are a problem any time the wind is out of the south or southwest, and then it becomes just another road to get past. When the sun is out, as it was today, it’s a beautiful ride along some of the most scenic roadway in North America.

There are plenty of small communities along this part of the Trans-Canada Highway. Any time you want a scenic overlook, just pull off the road into one of them and you’ll be delighted by the view. Depending on the size, you might even be able to get a coffee or a meal – but don’t count on it.

Sleeping Giant
The Sleeping Giant

By the time Thunder Bay came into view it was late afternoon and time for a break.

I lived here for ten years when I was flying for a living. It’s a jewel in the middle of nowhere, a lunch-bucket town with grain elevators and paper mills located at the head of the lakes. In former times it was a huge shipping center for both lakeboats and salties to traverse the Great Lakes through the lock system at Sault Ste. Marie and into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Stone Chapel, circa 1885

I made a quick stop at the Terry Fox monument for a view across the bay to see the Sleeping Giant in all its glory. In twenty minutes I’ll be chowing down at a tiny little Chinese restaurant in the west end of Ft. William on Aurhur Street, not far from where I used to live.

The Mackinac Bridge

Today I’m splitting Michigan up the middle on US127 and heading for the Mackinac Bridge and Sault Ste. Marie. I’ve gotten a late start, so I won’t get too far, but that’s all right, because the weather is cooler. It’s still sunny too.

Mackinac is Canadian French, short for Michilimackinac, from early Ojibwa “Missilimaahkinaank” which means “at the territory of the Mishinimaki”. The French pronounced it “aw” but spelled it “ac”. The British heard it pronounced “aw” so they spelled it that way. Whichever way you see it spelled, it is always pronounced “aw”.

The Mackinac Bridge in northern Michigan is five miles long. At mid-span the road is 199 feet above the water. Construction began in May of 1954, and it opened for traffic on-schedule in November, 1957. Five men lost their lives during construction. To paint it takes seven years, and then they start all over again.

In 1989 a Yugo was blown off of the bridge in a bad windstorm, and in 1997 an SUV was driven off of it.

Residents of the Upper Peninsula (“Yoopers”) often refer to Lower Peninsula residents as “trolls” because they live “below the bridge.”

The wind howls across the roadway, and although it can be a little unnerving, I’ve crossed the bridge many times, by both car and motorcycle. On the bike I just angle over into the wind and I’m across in no time.

A motorcycle tends to wander a bit in the grate-covered lane, but that’s no problem. It’s completely normal. Relax your grip on the bars a bit and let it wander. If you’ve never experienced that sensation before, you’ll get the hang of it after a mile. The speed limit on the bridge isn’t so great that you’ll feel uncomfortable.

Crossing into Canada went trouble-free, and from the border I headed north on the Trans-Canada Highway along the north shore of Lake Superior to Wawa. There’s plenty of bush, lakes and animals on this road, not to mention the mosquitoes and the flies. It’s isolated and lonely riding, but that makes the fuel stops entertaining for the characters that cross your path. It’s also a huge tourist area in the summer, and businesses sell all manner of trinkets to foreigners (Canadian as well as international) who come up here by car or tour bus to experience the bush.

Vehicles aren’t an option in this part of the world. You either own one or you stay where you are until the Greyhound bus arrives, and then you’re at the mercy of their timetable. If you’re off the beaten path, you’re even more isolated as electricity is not an option for most summer or winter cottages in this area. Of course, all the towns have electricity. In the winter, snowmobiling and ice fishing are big here.

Better them than me. I’m always glad I’m just passing through areas like this, although it is very pretty country to see.