6,254 miles

After a 529 mile day I am back to the apartment I rented six weeks ago. It’s empty for now, but an old air mattress and a sleeping bag are all I need to get comfortable after all of these weeks on the road. I’ll be spending the next months filling it with the furniture I need to call it home.

This trip has been good for me. After 6,254 miles on the bike I’ve cleared out most if not all of the cobwebs picked up over the past six years or more. I’ve ridden over thousands of miles of new road and met a whole bunch of new people, all the while with the sun shining and blue sky overlooking my back. I’ve seen the full moon through the clouds at night and once again witnessed moose and deer and ducks and geese in the Canadian wilderness. You can’t beat all that.

My riding for the rest of the year will now be tempered with the need for getting comfortable in my new place. I have quite a few “things” stored in a friend’s garage which I’ll be slowly moving to my new place. In addition, I have a storage unit here which will start getting empty shortly. I’ll need a winter storage spot for the bike, and that will do nicely.

Tomorrow I’ll change the oil and filter on the bike, and from there I’ll take it one day at a time.

It’s good to be home again!

Waiting for parts

July 25 – 27, 2006

The road has been good to me so far on this trip – only a downpour after disembarking the Tobermory ferry on the Bruce Peninsula while headed east, and a warm shower when almost in Maryland. There have been no close calls with vehicles; no freezing temperatures to fight in the early mornings; no fierce winds.

As luck would have it, I discovered a cracked header pipe, and I must wait for a new one to be shipped in. I’ve picked up a loaner bike from the Harley dealer, an ’04 FLSTC. It has apehangers on it, but the hand controls haven’t been set up for riding it comfortably. I made a simple adjustment to the clutch and brake lever positions, helping my wrists to overcome an uncomfortable and twisted position. It never ceases to amaze me what some will put up with to look cool.

Over the next few days I do the tourist thing in this city of 750,000, visiting the Forks and a couple of other places. There is now a nice walking bridge — the Esplanade Riel — over the Red River with a Salisbury House Restaurant located mid-span. I stop to check out the bridge and to have my Nip & Chips fix.

I head out to Lac du Bonnet to visit a friend that I haven’t seen for seven years, and to see a couple of acquaintances from a former life. We talk over old times and have a few laughs at the expense of others who I used to work with. It seems that things haven’t changed with my former place of employment. I was so happy to be done with the place back then, and it is now a lifetime away.

When my header finally arrives and gets installed it is mid-afternoon. As I head out on the road, the clouds and fog begin, and the rain starts on the west end of the city. It only lasts for a couple of hours and then the sun finally pops out and warms the rest of the day. It’s a boring ride to Moosomin and my overnight stop. At least the highway has been twinned in a lot of places now. I suspect it will be completed across Saskatchewan next year.

Places to eat – Winnipeg, Manitoba

Updated Below

The Salsbury HouseAt any Salisbury House

Hours: Some are open 24 hours, others have limited hours.

You can’t go wrong with the Mr. Big Nip and Chips. Trust me on this. It’s one of the best burgers in North America. Eat at the counter or at a table.

And, for those of you who can’t exist without that staple known as Canadian bacon – whatever that is – you can have it with the breakfast special.

Update July 2010: I had the Sweet Potato Fries. They were excellent! The Mr. Big Nip was pretty good too.

Update July 2008: Since my last visit to a Salisbury House in July of 2007, I’m not certain that these places are maintaining their quality. The chef turned out a burger pattie that was pink on the inside. When I pointed it out to the waitress, she shrugged and said that there would be no charge for the burger or the drink. No offer to have a fresh pattie, nada.

What kind of a way is that to run a restaurant?

Needless to say, I rode off without waving.

Winterpeg

Field of dreamsA gorgeous city in the summer turns into a nightmare in winter. It can go to -40F here in January for three weeks. A blizzard can and does shut town the city for three or four days, three times each winter. With the wind the snow can pile up in drifts up to a garage roof if your home happens to face in the wrong direction. It’s horrible. Ask me how I know!

Esplanade Riel
Esplanade Riel

Spring is no bonus, for the Red River can flood it’s banks and make a mess too. Oh, and don’t forget about the mosquitoes that make it quite unpleasant to go outside in the mornings and evenings. West Nile Virus never had such a pleasing home.

A growing native population from northern reserves has helped to contribute to burgeoning crime, street gangs, and high unemployment.

Ask a resident and he’ll tell you that it’s the best place in the world, but remember, he probably grew up on a farm and couldn’t wait to get out of the farmhouse and away to someplace else.

It’s just a good place to be from, and I’m happy I no longer live here.

Lake Superior’s North Shore

Forestry and mining dominate this part of the world. All of the towns are one-industry, or, if fortunate, two-industry, with mining being the second of two evils. Forestry prevails from here west to the border with Manitoba but there are scattered production mines for gold or other metals.

Easy Blue
Easy Blue

The road isn’t the greatest, although it is well maintained. It’s all two-lane blacktop at best, with the occasional passing lane to break the monotony. Straight stretches are at a premium, and during summer the ‘Bagos, boat trailers and semis are tough to get past.

Deer and moose prevail. Hitting a 1,200 pound moose is no picnic, and although the deer are much smaller, at speed they too will make quite a mess out of a car.

Fuel isn’t a problem along this route. There’s plenty of every kind you might want to buy, although you may have to spend some time looking for a particular octane in town.

North of Wawa the road heads inland for 116 miles and then Marathon comes into view on a peninsula into Lake Superior. There are three gold mines east of Marathon, but you won’t be stopping for a tour to see the sights. You’ll never get in.

Since the road now follows the shore, fog and rain are a problem any time the wind is out of the south or southwest, and then it becomes just another road to get past. When the sun is out, as it was today, it’s a beautiful ride along some of the most scenic roadway in North America.

There are plenty of small communities along this part of the Trans-Canada Highway. Any time you want a scenic overlook, just pull off the road into one of them and you’ll be delighted by the view. Depending on the size, you might even be able to get a coffee or a meal – but don’t count on it.

Sleeping Giant
The Sleeping Giant

By the time Thunder Bay came into view it was late afternoon and time for a break.

I lived here for ten years when I was flying for a living. It’s a jewel in the middle of nowhere, a lunch-bucket town with grain elevators and paper mills located at the head of the lakes. In former times it was a huge shipping center for both lakeboats and salties to traverse the Great Lakes through the lock system at Sault Ste. Marie and into the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Stone Chapel, circa 1885

I made a quick stop at the Terry Fox monument for a view across the bay to see the Sleeping Giant in all its glory. In twenty minutes I’ll be chowing down at a tiny little Chinese restaurant in the west end of Ft. William on Aurhur Street, not far from where I used to live.

The Mackinac Bridge

Today I’m splitting Michigan up the middle on US127 and heading for the Mackinac Bridge and Sault Ste. Marie. I’ve gotten a late start, so I won’t get too far, but that’s all right, because the weather is cooler. It’s still sunny too.

Mackinac is Canadian French, short for Michilimackinac, from early Ojibwa “Missilimaahkinaank” which means “at the territory of the Mishinimaki”. The French pronounced it “aw” but spelled it “ac”. The British heard it pronounced “aw” so they spelled it that way. Whichever way you see it spelled, it is always pronounced “aw”.

The Mackinac Bridge in northern Michigan is five miles long. At mid-span the road is 199 feet above the water. Construction began in May of 1954, and it opened for traffic on-schedule in November, 1957. Five men lost their lives during construction. To paint it takes seven years, and then they start all over again.

In 1989 a Yugo was blown off of the bridge in a bad windstorm, and in 1997 an SUV was driven off of it.

Residents of the Upper Peninsula (“Yoopers”) often refer to Lower Peninsula residents as “trolls” because they live “below the bridge.”

The wind howls across the roadway, and although it can be a little unnerving, I’ve crossed the bridge many times, by both car and motorcycle. On the bike I just angle over into the wind and I’m across in no time.

A motorcycle tends to wander a bit in the grate-covered lane, but that’s no problem. It’s completely normal. Relax your grip on the bars a bit and let it wander. If you’ve never experienced that sensation before, you’ll get the hang of it after a mile. The speed limit on the bridge isn’t so great that you’ll feel uncomfortable.

Crossing into Canada went trouble-free, and from the border I headed north on the Trans-Canada Highway along the north shore of Lake Superior to Wawa. There’s plenty of bush, lakes and animals on this road, not to mention the mosquitoes and the flies. It’s isolated and lonely riding, but that makes the fuel stops entertaining for the characters that cross your path. It’s also a huge tourist area in the summer, and businesses sell all manner of trinkets to foreigners (Canadian as well as international) who come up here by car or tour bus to experience the bush.

Vehicles aren’t an option in this part of the world. You either own one or you stay where you are until the Greyhound bus arrives, and then you’re at the mercy of their timetable. If you’re off the beaten path, you’re even more isolated as electricity is not an option for most summer or winter cottages in this area. Of course, all the towns have electricity. In the winter, snowmobiling and ice fishing are big here.

Better them than me. I’m always glad I’m just passing through areas like this, although it is very pretty country to see.

14,000 miles and running strong

I plan on making Lansing, Michigan tonight.

Early out is the game for today. I headed north on the 270 to make time. This is a nice treed route, and although it’s an interstate, it’s a great ride. There are plenty of pullouts to take breaks and view the surrounding land, and one can still make good time. Another day and I’d trace the Potomac for a leisurely ride. It’s only a few miles away.

It’s a good morning for riding. The sun is at my back and highlights everything in front of me with that early-morning glow. With the sun low in the sky like this, the humidity hasn’t started yet but I know it will. Thankfully I’ll be long gone by then and into the shadow of the Great Lakes.

I’m in the groove now, and since there’s plenty of pullouts for gas, I can make good time on my way west. These roads are fantastic – obviously being close to D.C. they get all the money. Too bad some of that cash can’t be spent around Detroit, but that’s just the way it happens here and in every other part of North America.

Around noon I hit the Ohio border and stop for a long break. I’ve made good time and I think I’ll slow down during the heat of the day and take it easy for a while. Plenty of breaks for rest and water to keep refreshed and I’ll be home-free tonight when I hit the sack in Lansing.

Tomorrow I’ll change the oil and filter on my new engine, which isn’t so new now that it has 14,000 miles on it since installation in December of 2005.

Damn but I love riding!